Rogan's GUlly - 300m, WI2-3
First pitch of Rogan's Gully
Approach: From Calgary, drive to the Banff gate. Once beyond the Banff gate, drive until you get to the first exit for Lake Minnewanka, take a right. Park at the first obvious pull-out parking area after the cattle grate.
Directly above will be Cascades Falls, a classic WI3 climb. To the left of Cascades Falls you'll find Rogan's Gully, and your target for the day. Walk on a well worn path until directly under Rogan's Gully - head up.
Climb: The climb starts with a 20m WI2-3 pitch, depending on how you climb it (left side generally easier). A good 2 bolt chain anchor awaits you on the rock directly above. From here, you can easily walk up in a snow filled gully, paying attention that the reason this is snow filled, is due to numerous avalanches that come down this path when snow conditions aren't great. After 15 minutes or so, you'll round the corner and encounter 3 steps of short easy ice. If ice is generally thin, these short steps can be more rock climb that ice climb.
Above the rock steps, you'll see the final good pitch of ice (30m WI3). Rappel the ice pitch, and walk down to the first pitch. Rappel to ground.
*Do not climb here if avy conditions aren't great.
Gear required: 1x 60m rope. Ice screws if leading (4-5/to comfort), ice tools and crampons.
Directly above will be Cascades Falls, a classic WI3 climb. To the left of Cascades Falls you'll find Rogan's Gully, and your target for the day. Walk on a well worn path until directly under Rogan's Gully - head up.
Climb: The climb starts with a 20m WI2-3 pitch, depending on how you climb it (left side generally easier). A good 2 bolt chain anchor awaits you on the rock directly above. From here, you can easily walk up in a snow filled gully, paying attention that the reason this is snow filled, is due to numerous avalanches that come down this path when snow conditions aren't great. After 15 minutes or so, you'll round the corner and encounter 3 steps of short easy ice. If ice is generally thin, these short steps can be more rock climb that ice climb.
Above the rock steps, you'll see the final good pitch of ice (30m WI3). Rappel the ice pitch, and walk down to the first pitch. Rappel to ground.
*Do not climb here if avy conditions aren't great.
Gear required: 1x 60m rope. Ice screws if leading (4-5/to comfort), ice tools and crampons.
