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Rogan's GUlly - 300m, WI2-3

Picture
First pitch of Rogan's Gully
Approach: From Calgary, drive to the Banff gate.  Once beyond the Banff gate, drive until you get to the first exit for Lake Minnewanka, take a right.  Park at the first obvious pull-out parking area after the cattle grate.  
Directly above will be Cascades Falls, a classic WI3 climb.  To the left of Cascades Falls you'll find Rogan's Gully, and your target for the day.  Walk on a well worn path until directly under Rogan's Gully - head up.

Climb: The climb starts with a 20m WI2-3 pitch, depending on how you climb it (left side generally easier).  A good 2 bolt chain anchor awaits you on the rock directly above.  From here, you can easily walk up in a snow filled gully, paying attention that the reason this is snow filled, is due to numerous avalanches that come down this path when snow conditions aren't great.  After 15 minutes or so, you'll round the corner and encounter 3 steps of short easy ice.  If ice is generally thin, these short steps can be more rock climb that ice climb.  
Above the rock steps, you'll see the final good pitch of ice (30m WI3).  Rappel the ice pitch, and walk down to the first pitch.  Rappel to ground.  

*Do not climb here if avy conditions aren't great.


Gear required: 1x 60m rope.  Ice screws if leading (4-5/to comfort), ice tools and crampons.

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  • Home
  • Ice Climbing
    • Banff >
      • WI3-4 Bear Spirit cragging area
      • WI3 Cascades Falls
      • WI4 Guiness Gully
      • WI2-5+ Johnstons Canyon
      • WI3 Lady Wilsons Cleavage
      • WI4+ Louise Falls
      • WI4 The Professor Falls
      • WI2-3 Rogan's Gully
      • WI3 Step Right Up
      • WI5/5+ Tokkum Pole
      • WI2-5 Urs Hole + Direct Finish
    • Yoho >
      • WI5/5+ Cold Choice
      • WI4 LadyKiller
    • Banff
    • Jasper >
      • WI3 - Kerkeslin Falls
      • WI2-5 The Queen - Maligne Canyon
    • Kananaskis >
      • WI2 - Chantilly Falls
      • WI2-3 Kings Creek
      • WI4/4+ Moonlight
      • WI4 Snowline
      • WI2-4 Wedge Smears
    • Canmore >
      • WI2 - Heart Creek Smears
      • WI2+/3 - Grotto Falls
      • WI3/4 - Hers Pillar
      • WI2-3 Lower Grassi (aka The JunkYards)
      • Coire Dubh Topo
    • The Ghost >
      • The Ghost Wilderness Ice Climbing Map
      • WI3 Albatross
      • WI4 Beowulf
      • WI4 Chilkoot Pass
      • WI3 Dead Bird
      • WI4 Devil's Punchbowl
      • WI5 Fang and Fist
      • WI4 Kemosabe
      • WI5 The Eagle
      • WI3 The Joker
      • WI5 The Sorcerer
      • WI3/4+ This House of Sky
      • WI2+ Valley of the Sun
      • WI4+ The Seagull
      • WI4+ Yellow Bird
      • WI4 Weathering Heights
      • WI5 Wicked Wanda
  • Alpine Climbing
    • Select Rockies 11,000ers >
      • Mt. Assiniboine
      • Mt. Andromeda >
        • North Face III
        • Skyladder II
      • Mt. Athabasca >
        • North Face III 5.7
        • Silverhorn II
      • Mt. Cline
      • Mt. Edith Cavel
      • Mt. Harrison
      • Mt. Hector
      • Mt. Joffre (Kananaskis)
      • Mt. Lefroy
      • The Lyells
      • Mt. Resplendent - NW slopes II
      • Mt. Robson - Kain Face IV >
        • Berg Lake Trail
        • Patterson Spur Approach
        • 10 Year Journey - Mt. Robson
      • Mt. Snow Dome
      • Mt. Victoria >
        • SE Ridge II
        • NE Ridge II
    • Select Rockies Alpine >
      • Aberdeen II
      • Corey's Groove - 455m 5.10a
      • Lady Macdonald ESE Ridge 5.5
      • Mt. Lorette SE Ridge 5.4
      • Stanley Peak Waterman's Couloir
      • Grotto - SE Ridge 5.7
      • Duped on Dubh
      • Rundle Traverse
      • Columbia Icefield Ski Touring
    • Select West Coast Alpine >
      • Mt. St. Helen's
      • Joffre Peak (Coast)
      • Mt. Shasta
      • Mt. Baker
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