Grotto Mountain - South East Ridge 5.7
Date climbed: April 22, 2016
SE Ridge of Grotto (right skyline)
Authors Note: A very aesthetic line seen as you pass by Exshaw on your way to Canmore. Moderate scrambling leads to an exciting 2 pitch 5.7 trad finish. Its a long way down - plan your time. Felt stiff for a 5.7.
Approach: From Highway 1A, park in a clearing across from Gap Lake. The approach to the ridge proper is done by hiking through open slopes and forest always aiming up and climbers right, eventually reaching scrambling terrain.
Climb: Scramble the ridge where easiest, usually on the right side (east). One 5.2 step initially, and an exposed 5.3 step up higher will need to be negotiated on very solid rock. You'll pass old rap slings on the second step. As you approach the summit block, look high on the wall, a little right of the drainage and try to spot a white sling - youll climb right beside it. Once at the upper summit block (2.5-3hrs from car), contour around east where easier ground is reached for the start of the technical climbing (8m right of a dead tree). If the start is overhung, then you haven't gone far enough around.
Climb directly up and slightly left to an obvious corner system, staying on 5.7 ground. Going right and aiming for a bench too soon will get you into 5.10 terrain quickly. At 20m, look for a Piton in a crack in the ground at a ledge, Belay from here.
The second pitch regains the same corner system you were just in, and climbs a chimney feature at first for 5m. Traverse right over to the face on good rock, and climb to easier ground above. 55m to a comfortable belay area (gear belay). Scramble the next 10m to the top.
Gear required: A single 60m works great here, minding your rope drag. Gear to 2 inches is sufficient. Other than the 1 piton to belay from, there are no set anchors.
*sorry - didn't take many pictures, nor are they worth anything for route finding.
Approach: From Highway 1A, park in a clearing across from Gap Lake. The approach to the ridge proper is done by hiking through open slopes and forest always aiming up and climbers right, eventually reaching scrambling terrain.
Climb: Scramble the ridge where easiest, usually on the right side (east). One 5.2 step initially, and an exposed 5.3 step up higher will need to be negotiated on very solid rock. You'll pass old rap slings on the second step. As you approach the summit block, look high on the wall, a little right of the drainage and try to spot a white sling - youll climb right beside it. Once at the upper summit block (2.5-3hrs from car), contour around east where easier ground is reached for the start of the technical climbing (8m right of a dead tree). If the start is overhung, then you haven't gone far enough around.
Climb directly up and slightly left to an obvious corner system, staying on 5.7 ground. Going right and aiming for a bench too soon will get you into 5.10 terrain quickly. At 20m, look for a Piton in a crack in the ground at a ledge, Belay from here.
The second pitch regains the same corner system you were just in, and climbs a chimney feature at first for 5m. Traverse right over to the face on good rock, and climb to easier ground above. 55m to a comfortable belay area (gear belay). Scramble the next 10m to the top.
Gear required: A single 60m works great here, minding your rope drag. Gear to 2 inches is sufficient. Other than the 1 piton to belay from, there are no set anchors.
*sorry - didn't take many pictures, nor are they worth anything for route finding.