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crevasse rescue - club trip - April 6
K7 Climber ascending the rope
Headed out to the Yamnuska Bluffs with a group of 15 K7 Climbers from the K7 Climbing club to practice crevasse rescue techniques.
We had 3 stations setup, and had everyone go through each station at the same time. The 3 stations were a): Rappelling - a 12 meter rappel on lower angle rock, with one small roof to negotiate
b): Ascending - a 15 meter free-hanging rope ascent done via prussic. We used a combination of classic, french and bachman knots to prussic up the rope under a complete overhanging roof at 15 meters.
c): Hauling (pulley station) - Using the roof and overhang, we setup a 3-1 and 6-1 hauling with auto-lock system. We hauled up a 150lbs person, as well as a 185lbs person over 15 meters of free-hanging space - as you would during a real crevasse rescue.
Great job to everyone who attended!
If you wish to join the club, or view future club trips, please click here!
Tokum Pole - 40m WI5+ - March 30
Climbed in Marble Canyon for the first time! Great place if you're looking to avoid the Haffner crowds.
The pillar is missing it's bottom 8 meters or so, resulting in a mixed climb start. The rock portion offers 5-6 moves before you're able to get to the overhanging ice above for a good rest. Once on that ice, it's a final tricky move to transfer to the pillar, where you're then rewarded with 20m or so of great ice. At the time of writing, the Tokum Pole is in great condition, and we made the rappel into the canyon with a 60m rope (extended at the fence above). It would be more comfortable with a 70m.
We exited via Throttler, a mixed 20m climb more in a WI3, M4 range. It's missing some ice up top (hence mixed), but is fairly easy to negotiate. We already cut the cornice that had capped it off - you're welcome!
*please send comments here
Activity in 2014:
Jan 18: Lower Weeping Wall Left Side
Jan 25: Beowulf 650m, WI4
Jan 26: Rogan's Gully 300m WI2-3
Feb 2: Yellow Bird 55m, WI4+
Feb 8: Wendell Mountain - Scramble
Feb 15: The Professor Falls - 280m, WI4+
Feb 17: Kemosabe 100m, WI4
Feb 22: Louise Falls 110m, WI4
March 9: Sunshine 50m, WI3
March 22: Aquarious, 60m WI4, + Recital Hall
March 30: Tokum Pole, 40m WI5+
April 6: Crevasse Rescue Exercise (Club Trip)
Climbing activity archive: